Cranberries Three Ways: in an Old-Fashioned, Sugared, and in a Cranberry-Rum ginger jam that is amazeballs instead of that jiggly canned shit served at Thanksgiving. Trust me. It’s also delightful stirred into rum cocktails, or into club soda with a dash of bitters for a gorgeous spritzer.
Cranberry-Clementine Old Fashioned. Mid-century style (photo by Tristan Shepherd).
My super-hip friends Fat Tire Ale and Cosmopolitan recently asked me to curate—which it seems is a fancy-schmancy word used everywhere now for ‘make shit up’ as opposed to the ‘curatorial’ work I did in museums, anyhoooo—the cocktails for a holiday party they hosted recently at their gorgeous mid-century modern house. I was MORE than happy to do so, and even more excited about the substantial research and testing needed to get the job done. I suffer for y’all. Really I do.
For the past couple of years, I’ve been experimenting with making a cranberry jam. Cranberries are perfect for canning projects: they are easy to process (no peeling, seeding, etc.), take on flavor well, and already have a lot of natural pectin, which means they gel delightfully well. As I often do, I referenced the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving (ed by Judi Kingry and Lauren Devine) to make sure my acid levels would be appropriate for canning to avoid the cooties. In case you hadn’t heard: Botulism sucks. Avoid it. If you are a beginning canner, or just want to have pretty much The Bible of Canning on hand, THIS, my friends, is the book for you. Here are the recipes I came up with, based very loosely on the Ball book’s Cranberry Rum Sauce.
My buddy Ramos Gin Fizz and I, all fancied up. Classic polaroid. (photo by Cody Derrick)
For the full story on my Old Fashioned experience, see the piece that I wrote for CityHomeCollective this week. Apologies in advance to my in-laws: they are wonderful, talented, loving people. They are just not-so-great bartenders.
Rub ½ of the rim of a lowball glass with ¼ of a Clementine wedge;
dip the citrus-coated rim of the glass in turbinado sugar to coat.
To a short glass add:
juice of ¼ Clementine wedge (drop it into the glass, if you want to be like Don Draper’s daughter)
3 dashes bitters
½ tsp. cranberry jam (or cranberry sauce)
½ tsp sugar
Stir with a spoon until sugar dissolves.
Add 2 oz. bourbon
3-4 cubes ice
Top with an optional tiny baby splash of club soda.
Stir gently to combine.
Garnish with 2-3 sugared cranberries*.
Cranberry Jam with ginger and citrus. If you have a few tablespoons left from canning, it’s terrific on toast, or mixed into a rum-citrus cocktail with a little ginger beer floater.
Cranberry-Rum Jam with ginger and citrus
Makes nine or ten 8oz. jars
3 lg. (6”) cinnamon sticks, broken into 2” pieces
12 whole allspice berries
9 whole cloves
4 ½ cups granulated sugar
2- 2/3 cups water
12 cups fresh cranberries
3 large apples (sweet or tart, or a combo), peeled, cored, and chopped
1 ½ cups rum
2 Tbs. fresh grated ginger
Zest of 1 orange
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 envelope liquid fruit pectin
Prepare canner, jars and lids for water bath canning.
My Canning Bible.
Make a spice bundle with a large square of cheesecloth: add cinnamon sticks, allspice, and cloves.
To a very large non-reactive saucepan, add sugar, water, and spice bag. Bring to a boil, and stir constantly until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat, and boil gently for 5 minutes.
Add cranberries and apples, and return to boil. Boil on med-low gently, stirring frequently to avoid scorching, for about 15-20 minutes, or until cranberries have burst and the apples are very tender.
Remove the spice bag, and remove pan from heat. Add the rum to the pan. Purée until smooth using an immersion blender (or in batches- careful!!!- in a regular blender). Add the ginger, orange zest, and vanilla extract. Stir to combine.
Bring to a high boil that cannot be stirred down (as for jam), add the liquid pectin, and stir constantly to avoid scorching. Boil hard for one minute, then remove from heat.
Ladle hot jam into jars leaving ¼” headspace. Wipe rims, add new sterilized lids and clean rings. Tighten to fingertip tight.
Process in boiling water bath canner for sea-level baseline 15 minutes (adjust for altitude wherever you are!). Turn off the heat, and remove canner lid. Let jars sit in canner 5 minutes. Remove jars, cool, and store for up to one year.
To make sugared cranberries: whisk together 1 egg white and 1 Tbs. water in a medium bowl until frothy.
Throw 1 cup cranberries in the egg-water and toss to coat; shake off the excess egg by letting it drip through your fingers.
Immediately toss the cranberries with 1 cup turbinado or sanding sugar until evenly coated. Set out in a single layer on a rimmed cookie sheet to harden for 24 hours. Store for up to one week on the cookie sheet or in a vented container (if it’s sealed tightly, the sugar will melt).